Hi guys

Firstly I have no knowledge whatsoever of Electronics and RF, my background back in the UK was electrical but I specialized in the manufacture design and installation of Electric Heat Trace Systems for tanks pipe lines etc

I recently purchased


For a project imp trying to develop

Basically I have a fluid level float switch with 3 independent reed switches that when the fluid rises/falls to the 3 individual points they draw together and form a circuit


Float 1 High level 

Float 2 Ideal Level

Float 3 Low Level

The float switch itself will be mounted some 50 feet from the main equipment (pump and control panel)

Hard wiring between those 2 locations would be completely impractical, so I have gone down the thought pattern of RF wireless control

The float switch would sit in a bulkhead with a small weatherproof box on the top containing the transmitter and transmitter power supply and around 50 feet away in another weatherproof box would be the receiver with its own power supply

With the help of a fantastic new friend in Chennai (India) I have managed to get to the stage where the connections for the 3 reed switches to the transmitter are ok and the pairing between the transmitter and receiver also.

But honestly I don’t want to keep pestering him, even though he doesn’t mind. So I thought lets sign up here where I purchased the kit from albeit via eBay and see if you guys can please help me out

My question is regarding the best power supply to the transmitter (remember no hard wiring)

So I'm assuming a battery supply contained within the weatherproof enclosure and I believe I need 5 volts?

Then secondly would be the power supply for the receiver (this can be powered by a hard wired device as its in an area where it would be practical

I'm sorry to be a pain and burden you people but your help would be greatly appreciated

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I just had a reply on another forum does this make sense?

"The device you purchased is not authorized for unlicensed use in the United States. The 433 MHz ISM band is restricted to Region 1, which includes Africa, Europe, and Russia. The USA, the Americas, Greenland and some eastern Pacific islands are i..., where this band is reserved for radionavigation and licensed amateur radio (70 cm band) use only. This is enforced by the Federal Communications Commission (FCC) with authority to levy heavy fines, imposed on a daily basis, and to seize unauthorized equipment. It is likely that your use of this equipment could interfere with radio amateur activities in the 70 cm band, and if so, they will report you to the FCC in a heartbeat. I know I would. Hams are very protective of the few frequency allocations available for amateur radio communications.

A much better (and legal) bet would be one of the "Wi-Fi" bands, with an appropriate narrow-band line-of-sight antenna on both ends of the communications link."

Hi Chris,

 This 420-450 MHz is a amateur band but low power transmitters are common in this range and are used in R/C vehicles for video cameras. It is compatible with many small color and black and white PC board camera's. Power packs of lead acid, NiCad, or alkaline power packs are commonly used. Less than 8-15 volts is not recommended. Power output is typically from 0.3-1.0 watt over this range.

 What you have is a 0.5-Watt TV transmitter. You do need a valid amateur license permitting operation in this band in the United States. You could cause interferes with channel 60 on TV or with a down converter ch3 or 4. And you should be using a downconverter outputting this method is preferred because it optimize's RF front end and best reception range.

 Ham operators are so fast to point a finger at a pirate who at 0.5-Watts (flea power) really do so little harm, yet they let the FCC rob them blind. Sort of a noisy trouble making neighbor.  But yes, It is true. You can run flea power in other MHz such 7.0-7.3 or as 30-meter 10 MHz or 80-meter 3.5 MHz with and get a long 500mi range but you need a long ant. to do that.

 I just don't seeing that you would cause interferes running your rig at 5 volts and it said it would run at 3 volts.

We all make interferes even if we run a DC motor or use a vacuum. He is correct but I think he's nit-picking and so many Ham's do. There raised that way. And I'm going to regret saying that I just know it...

Hi Chris,

 I'm guessing you have solved your problem by now and why not keep in touch with your good friend...

It is hard for me to believe that a 2.5 MA transmitter using 433.92 MHz will be reliable over the mile and one quarter as it claims but that wasn't your question was it.

 If you need a continue source of power why not use solar / battery?  There is no mechanical way of solving this problem?Even if you need to put it on a tree top. Does it need to be kid proof? I think I'm missing the point of why you want to control something at a point so far away when you may be able to control it at what you call hard wire point.

I am working on low power wire-less energy of 20mi or more... I would wonder if you need that constant 2.5MA of drain and if you could turn it on and off with less of a drain. Not that 2.5 is much but that kind of parasite drain would require often battery changes. Just you buying a 2 mile transmitter makes me think changing battery's is not an option.  Flout's, lever's and valves wouldn't do it? Or three out lets to open and close mechanical valves on each level? No electric power needed...     Well, that's my crummy two cents...


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